Day 18 – Kanazawa. 15/4/2013

Another busy day, this time assisted by a 500 yen jump-on-jump-off bus pass. Pretty good value compared to the open top buses of Europe.

First stop was the Higashi Chaya district, an old Geisha House area. We toured Shima Geisha House and checked out a gold leaf factory. Kanazawa produces 99% of Japan’s gold leaf. Carol and I got to eat some gold leaf (the kids declined) and had gold leaf tea.

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Next stop was Kanazawa Castle, rebuilt in the 20th century from 18th century plans. These wooden Japanese buildings don’t cope well with fire or lightning strikes.

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Across the road from the castle was Kenroku-en Garden, one of the top 3 gardens in Japan. Wow. The wander through the garden was so peaceful, and so many photo opportunities. I had an apprentice photographer today. Lach had my phone camera and took some great shots. Actually, he took the majority of today’s photos.20130415_132000 20130415_131839 20130415_131438 20130415_131330 20130415_130807 IMG_5040 IMG_5037 IMG_5035

 

Continuing on, we visited the Naga-machi Buke Yashiki district, an old Samurai district. We toured Nomura-ke, a samurai house. The house was similar to others we have seen, but the garden was unbelievable. So many features packed into a tiny area.

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Last stop for the day was the Omi-cho market area, where we bought some fresh fruit (we haven’t seen much fresh fruit) and looked around at the fish, seafood and seaweed markets stalls.

Day 17 –Takayama to Kanazawa. 14/4/2013

Today was day one of the Takayama Spring Festival. This festival involves huge float that get pulled through the streets, puppet shows and thousands of people. Yesterday Takayama was a quiet country town, today people everywhere. We started our day at the same ‘cappuccinery’ (a great word we thought. The man at the tourist info centre told us there was a cappuccinery beside the station when we asked where we could get a coffee yesterday)

After breakfast we headed away from the crowds toward the Autumn side of town (there’s an Autumn Festival as well, on the other side of town) to some huge temples and a rice cracker factory where the kids got to make their own hand made rice crackers.

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We found a French patisserie for a doughnut morning tea and had a coffee in a coffee shop full of Aussies.

We then headed for the festival area to see the floats. Wow. They were huge – maybe 8 – 10m high. The parade was occurring after we left town, so we didn’t get to see it, but seeing the floats was pretty amazing.

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Catching the train out of Takayama was the closest thing we’ve seen to chaos in Japan. The station probably handles a few hundred people a day, except festivals days when there are thousands of extra people in town. The station just couldn’t cope. Our train was actually 2 or 3 minutes late leaving the station. Disgusting service!

 The train trip to Kanazawa was another picturesque journey, this time down the mountains to the west coast. The snow covered alps are quite close to the cosat here, so the view from the train was great. Our hotel is right beside the station, making it very easy to get around. Indian for dinner!

Day 16 –Day trip to Shirakawa-go from Takayama. 13/4/2013

After wandering up to the morning markets in an attempt to find something for breakfast, we managed to find a great little coffee just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel. Coffee or hot chocolate and 2 Danishes for about 500 yen ($5). Yum.

We were then off to Shirakawa-go, a small 16th century village, high in the Japanese Alps, which has been retained as original. It’s a real village, not a recreation, so some of the potential photos are interrupted with modern cars driving past. Some original houses are open as museums, so you can see how they were set up 500 years ago. The houses are steep roofed A-frame buildings, 4 floors and housed up to 30 people.

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Back in Takayama we further explored the San-machi area and Takayama jinya – the 17th century government building – and found a geocache on the site of the old castle.

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Dinner was another great find. We went searching for the Holy Grail. Turns out it’s an Italian restaurant just around the corner from the hotel. Great food – although you wouldn’t find it without the help of the trusty ‘Lonely Planet’.

A short night walk through the san-machi for some photos completed a great day.

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Day 15 –Tokyo to Takayama. 12/4/2013

Up early to pack and head off to the Shinkansen. We learnt an important lesson yesterday getting to Disneyland. We learnt that attempting the Metro during peak hour with suitcases would not be wise. We decided to catch a cab to Shinagawa station.

Shortly after the train left Tokyo my GPS recorded a speed of 264km/h. It felt like we were hardly moving it was so smooth. We had a great view of Mt. Fuji from the train – a much better view than from our expensive Mt Fuji day trip.

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After changing trains at Nagoya we headed into the mountains. Spectacular scenery (but difficult to photograph through the window of the train.)

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In Takayama it was freezing. And sort of snowing. After a short walk to the old part of town, San-machi, we went to a Japanese restaurant for dinner, our first Japanese meal. The reason is simple. Japan has as much diversity in food as we do in Australia. Seems they like eating a variety of food (at least in the tourist areas).

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Sitting writing this we are making comparisons between the size of hotel rooms. We think our entire Takayama room would fit into the bathroom of the Shanghai hotel room.

Day 14 –Tokyo Disneyland. 11/4/2013

This day had been much anticipated by Lauren. From breakfast she broadcast to her friends back home that today was the day. The trip to Disneyland required 3 trains during peak hour, but again Lachlan had the navigation under control, making sure we were at the right place at the right time and arriving before the gates opened. Once inside we quickly hit some of the rides that we knew would become busy later. Throughout the day we worked our way through all the lands and did every ride we wanted to do, and saw the daytime and night-time parades, and the fireworks. We left as the park was closing at 10pm. Big day.

Highlights: Lauren says ‘all of it’. For Lachlan wearing shorts was not a highlight. The weather was cold, probably about 13 degrees.

Back at the hotel we should have been packing to leave the next morning, but sleep was more important.

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Day 13 –Daytrip to Mt Fuji and Hakone from Tokyo. 10/4/2013

After a busy day yesterday, today was our opportunity to relax a little and be shown around. We headed south to Mt Fuji. The drive down was really pretty. I was expecting the blossoms to be in parks and gardens, but it seems they grow wild the countryside. As we neared Mt Fuji it was touch and go whether we would see much of it. We could see the lower slopes, but most of the upper slopes were in cloud. We ascended Mt Fuji to Station 4. Station 5, where we were meant to be going was closed due to snow. It’s still winter on the mountain. We got glimpses of the upper slopes, but you can’t see much from here.

After descending we headed for Hakone, a town surrounded by small volcanoes with a large lake in the caldera. From here we caught a Pirate Ship across the lake, with Mt Fuji becoming less obstructed. The final stage of the tour was a Gondola ride to a hot springs and sulphur processing area, where Mt Fuji in the distance was finally making an appearance.

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I managed to book our Shinkasen (Bullet train) tickets on the way back to Tokyo, saving a trip later in the evening.

Arriving back at the hotel around 9pm, we took to opportunity to get some sleep.

Day 12 –Tokyo. 9/4/2013

Today was our day to explore Tokyo. The Tokyo metro (subway) was our transport of choice with Lachlan, armed with the metro map, our chief navigator. The subway is so easy to use. Even though there are dozens of lines, each line and station is clearly marked in English, colour coded and each station is numbered. Buying tickets is all by vending machine and all so easy and cheap – Y160 or Y190 ($1.70 -$2) depending on how far you are travelling.

First stop was the Tsukiji fish market – the largest fish market in the world. We weren’t energetic enough to get up for the 5am fish auctions where they sell the big tuna, but the wholesale and retail fish market was amazing. We arrived before 9am, and had to wait till 9 when the market opens to the public. It was a hive of activity with electric carts zooming everywhere. The place was huge. We only managed to go up and down a few rows, covering 5 percent of the area at the most.

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We then headed for Asakusa, the old town of Tokyo. Here there are traditional buildings, temples and shrines, as well is lovely little parks and gardens. The big temple here is Senso-ji, a Buddhist temple. Although very touristy I didn’t hear a single “Hello, Hello, Rolex, Hello”.

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IMG_4436Our next step turned out to be a bit of a mistake. We decided to walk to Akihabara – the electronics and manga centre of Tokyo. It was a great area when we eventually got there, full of colour and life,  but was so much further to walk than the map made it look. Lesson learned: take the subway!

We then headed to the Imperial Palace gardens, which was a fascinating mix of traditional garden and old Imperial Palace fortifications.

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IMG_4464IMG_4468Exhaused, he headed back to the room for a break. The kids caught up with friends on the hotels free wifi, while Carol and I relaxed for a while. (Actually, Carol washed some clothes and I typed this!)

After dark we walked down to Tokyo Tower and had a light dinner in the Observation deck resturant. We were going to catch the metro back to the hotel, but forgot to take a mapand therefore couldn’t find the station, so we walked. Big day.

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Day 11 – Beijing to Tokyo. 8/4/2013

What a difference a day makes. We were up early for the flight to Tokyo. The move from China to Japan is extreme. The calmness and quietness is deafening. The traffic stays in its lane, It’s safe to cross the road, and there are options beyond local cuisine when it comes to eating.

After arrival at Narita Airport we found an ATM to get money (we had no Yen with us) and organised the Skyliner train into the city quickly and easily. Once in the city (Ueno) we were assisted by a friendly local to buy our subway ticket and before long we had made it to our hotel. I’m sure independent travel like this could not be done in China.

Upon arrival at the hotel we were given a gift which Gus and Akiko, Katrina’s dad’s Japanese friend, had left for us. A lovely bunch of fresh flowers and a huge package of lollies, chips and snacks. We felt like real VIPs. The kids discovered the toilet with its bidet and spray functions. Posh.

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After a short break we walked down to the Rapongi area for dinner. On the way we passed a pet shop selling monkeys. After nearly 2 weeks of Chinese food we were keen for a change. We managed to find an old English pub with fish and chips, an Australian wine, Guinness and great music. Very nice.

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Day 10 – Beijing. 7/4/2013

IMG_4340Another cool start to the day, and the sky not so blue, but still less air pollution than I was expecting. First stop was a jade factory, where the kids and I passed the time by trying to find the most expensive item in the shop. The most expensive we found was $US400000 for a jade fountain. Bargain.

The Juyongguan section of Great Wall was next. This is a section about an hour out of Beijing. We walked up a very steep section of wall, initially with lots of tourists, but in true Hunter style we kept going further than 99% of the other people, rewarding us with a section of wall with nobody else around and the opportunity for some great photos (I hope).

Lunch. Although not a typical lunch, it wasn’t far from it. Soup, mostly they’re insipid, flavourless watery soups, cold meats, 7 dishes including the obligatory steamed cabbage (yuck),rice,  tea, sprite, beer and flavourless watermelon.  At the lunch stop was also a huge tourist shopping area, specialising in closterine, a Beijing enamelled vase type thing.

The  Ming Tombs, built around the same time as the Forbidden City, was the next stop. 13 of 16 Ming Emperors are buried here. The building design is very similar to the Forbidden City, so it was lovely to wander around with no crowds. Our guide explained ‘Hell’s Gate’. When the emperor was buried the pall bearers had to enter the land of the dead, through Hells Gate. Anybody passing through the gate was never allowed to return, so the poor pall bearers were killed inside. When we went in we got to walk around the gate, so we were allowed to come out again. Coming out through the gate (we were allowed to go through it in that direction) we had to say ‘I’m Back’.

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IMG_4362IMG_4374IMG_4370We had a short street walk while we waited for the acrobat show to begin. Some of the sops were very differnet to home; hardware stores, bike repair shops, but some were almost exactly the same; cake shops, shoe.

The Acrobat Show was amazing. Juggling, balancing, jumping through hoops and bike balancing, but Lauren says the best bit was the popcorn.

After the show was dinner, then back to the room to pack for tomorrow – leaving for Japan.

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So, how has China rated?

The people are kind and considerate, but in a crowd (which is a lot of the time) they become pushy and loud.

The food has been good (and certainly better than Carol’s expectations). Much of it was bland, but after each guide got to know our tastes it improved until we got to the next city, where we had to retrain the next guide.

The history is fascinating. Every aspect of Chinese life, architecture, food, everything has meaning. It would be a pity if this was lost as China hurtles into the 21st century

The traffic is amazing. Chaotic, line markings, signs and even traffic lights have little relevance. But it works. The traffic keeps moving. Beijing traffic is more ordered than elsewhere, but still crazy.

Some things are very cheap – Snickers bars for 4.5 yuan (about 70 cents) 2 scoops of ice cream in a waffle cone for 15 Yuan ($2.50ish), some about the same as home – a coffee for about 30 Yuan ($5) and other things very expensive, such as a swim in the hotel pool for just  100 Yuan (about $18.)

Language and navigation would be tricky without a guide. In most of the tourist places some English is spoken, but often just a few words. “Hello Hello T-shirt Hello”, “Hello Hello Rolex Hello”. But these street sellers were never too intrusive. I think I only offended one person, and that was in the official gift shop at the Warriors where they were charging ridiculous prices for souvenirs. I told the salesman I’d rather buy on the street. He said I’d be buying rubbish, so I told him I’d rather buy rubbish than pay his prices. He wasn’t happy.

China souvenir wrap-up:

Carol – A few books, Christmas Ball, Chopsticks (Y20, bargained down from Y65)

Lauren – Panda hat, panda teapot, panda key rings, panda, charm bracelets, epic cow voodoo (very traditional Chinese!),

Lachlan – Warrior (Y100 from Y180), Painted bottle and Dragon key ring

Colin – Set of Warriors – bargained from Y250 to Y50

Day 9 – Beijing. 6/4/2013

With a forecast of 6 -13 degrees the first surprise of the day was the weather. We awoke to a clear blue sky. No pollution, no fog, just blue. We rugged up in lots of layers, headed outside into 3 degrees (first forecasting mistake) and headed toward the city centre.

First stop today was a short walk along Tiananmen Street, near Tiananmen Square. This street was a strange mix of Chinese and European architecture, and felt like a movie set.  Next was across to Tiananmen Square, the largest city square in the world. In 1949 over 1 million people were in the square to celebrate Chairman Mao’s official rise to power. We asked our guide about the events of 1989, and he was surprisingly forthcoming with information, but told us that during his guide training they are instructed to say they know nothing if tourists ask. He even pointed out where the tank episode took place.  We were able to do a quick virtual geocache here.

Next was the Forbidden City, the home of the Emperor for the last 800 years. Wow. These guys knew how to be extravagant. The place is huge, but also looking very run down. The guide said that not much of the $200 million annual entrance fees paid by visitors goes back into maintaining the City. Interestingly, he was quite openly anti-government in some of the comments he made.

Lunch was next on the agenda, followed by a visit to a Chinese Medicine Research Centre. There we were told about the basic principles of Chinese medicine, and a ‘doctor’ assessed the health of each of us. He then prescribed $474 worth of herbal remedies for us. Needless to say, we declined to Following our health assessment we headed for the ‘Temple of Heaven’, an impressive temple in a huge garden. Another geocache here, this time a real one, our first in China.

‘The legend of Kung Fu’ show was a highlight of the day. The staging and performances were amazing. For the 2nd or 3rd time on this trip we said Mr Burns from Cambe School should see the show to get ideas for future Wakakirri productions.

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Forbidden City

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Inside Forbidden City

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A local at the Temple of Heaven

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The Legend of Kung Fu

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The Legend of Kung Fu

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Fried scorpion

Dinner was followed by  a walk down some busy inner city streets, including a side street with food stalls selling all manner of delicacies, including snake, silk worms, scorpions and grasshoppers. Last stop, back to the room after a 12 hour day, lots of walking and some incredible experiences.

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Tiananmen Square

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Tiananmen Square

 

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